KnockOut Roses are the perfect way to add a pop of colour to any landscape. Whether planting near a fence or in a garden bed, they’re sure to be a total knockout to any viewer. My name is Macie, and this is Potting & Planting from FastGrowingTrees.com. Today we’ll be freshening up my friend’s front of the house with my gardening favourite, Double Knock Out® Roses.

In this post, you’ll learn how to plant your roses as well as best practices for helping them thrive in your landscape. So why are they Double Knock Out® Roses? Double Knock Out® Roses give you all the original Knock Out® Roses benefits but with even more petals.

The following post will discuss questions about a sunny knockout rose, whether roses need full sun, types of rose bushes, and rose bushes for sale. Keep going, read.

Who doesn’t love that? If you’re familiar with these roses at all, you know that they have one of the most extended blooming times from early summer through the late fall, making them a must-have for any colour-filled landscape.

There are countless ways to incorporate roses into your home’s landscape. It’s genuinely up to you from integrating them into your flower bed or grow them into a hedge. Keep in mind the work that comes with roses. Roses are not drought tolerant. They require pruning to maintain their appearance. It may sound like a lot, but don’t let that deter you.

The beauty that comes with these roses far outweighs the work. So before digging, make sure you select a spot where they can thrive.

These rose bushes have been grown to thrive in six to eight hours of sun, and you can even plant them in containers. However, they prefer well-drained soil. So I’ll be growing here along with the house. We’re on a relatively high hill, and the added gutters along either side allow the soil to be ideally suited for roses.

In addition to the rose bushes, there are a few things we’ll need to get the job done: a shovel, mulch, and gardening gloves. Trust me – when planting rose bushes, gloves are a must-have. When it comes to planting rose bushes, you’ll want to plant each bush at least three feet apart. Dig a hole that’s twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball of the rose you intend to plant.

Backfill the hole until you have a spot that’s approximately the size of the container the rose is currently in.

Insert the rose into the hole. Ensure it’s at the same depth as the container, backfill the hole and tamp down the dirt. Water the roses around the base using a garden hose. Avoid watering overhead since watering on the plant can cause disease. You’ll want to water at the bottom of the plant when the soil is dry to the touch two inches down.

Finally, we’ll mulch over the area to ensure the soil can retain moisture. It will also help prevent unwanted weeds. And just like that, we’re done.

Guys, I cannot believe how great this looks. It’s genuinely unique what some plants and a little bit of hard work will do to bring a new look to your home.

With all that work invested in your roses, maintaining them is essential. While Double Knock Out® Roses are resistant to pests, it’s still important to feed them with an organic rose fertilizer once per month. In addition, you can carefully prune your roses each year in late winter or early spring to maintain size and encourage proper branching and bud development. Ensure you use a sterilized pair of gardening shears for a cleaner, healthier cut when you prune. That’s all for today’s episode of Potting & Planting with FastGrowingTrees.

If you guys have any questions about roses, don’t hesitate to leave a comment below and don’t forget to subscribe for more potting and planting Steps just like this.

7 Rules for Pruning Roses

Hey, good morning. It’s Jason again for Fraser Valley Rose farm here. I am on my farm on a cloudy, rainy, dreary morning, But I’m using it to prune roses, and I thought it might be high time for me to make a post Going through some of the most common rules.

Those are quoted in teaching beginners how to prune roses. So, I’ve picked the seven most common rules and guidelines, and let me be straight here.
I think these rules and guidelines are intended to be helpful to simplify the process for people who are a little nervous about pruning their Roses.

But without context, they can also be confusing, so I chose the top seven. So here I’m going to go through it one by one and tear apart of it. Give you the reasons why they’re the rules and tell you whether I agree with them or disagree With them; stick around.

you will learn how to prune roses along the way, I promise, so the first of those rules is to preen your roses when the forsythia is in bloom and forsythia. This yellow shrub and I’ll include a picture of it in the landscape as well, But this yellow shrub blooms early in the season most temperate climates, one of the earliest things in bloom But it’s not the only thing in colour at this time of year so you can see here This is my Japanese quince.

Here is a Juneberry or Saskatoon. They’re all in bloom at this time of year. The idea behind this rule is to tell you when the beginning of the pruning window opens to remind you to look at Nature or follow Nature the plants. The early blooming shrubs are signalling to you that Nature has decided.

It’s time to come out of winter and that it’s safe to put on those blooms, and that they won’t die back due to a late frost. Do I think this is a good rule? Well, yeah, Sort. I mean, it’s good to listen to Nature, but Nature can be wrong. I’ve seen Pears bloom early; I’ve seen peaches bloom early and have their colours knocked off by frost before, so it’s not a perfect rule, But it does get you paying attention to when the beginning of the blooming season is. Now the other thing I will say about this rule is that the pruning season, in my view, extends much more extended than This only signals the very beginning of the pruning season.

So in my climate here on the west coast of Canada that Happens somewhere in the middle of March late March and goes all the way through, I don’t stop structural pruning in my roses, say August.

So like I have a six month period where I could do structural pruning on my roses.
Not do too much harm to them For the following seasons, so, you know It’s only the beginning that it’s signalling and the other thing I will say is there are sometimes good reasons to wait if you don’t have time.

At the start of the season, OK, wait until later Second thing is that some roses are once-blooming. Some roses repeatedly bloom throughout the season, the once-blooming roses. If you prune them too early, you’ll forego your flowers for that season.

So if you don’t know what your roses are, Or if you know that there are once bloomers or species roses, wait until after the first bloom to prune them. Then, if they’re repeat blooming, you Can take advantage of that whole window and not sacrifice too much in the way of flowers.

All right, the second rule for pruning roses For beginners is to start with the dead. Diseased Damaged or crossing stems is a crucial rule and a good one Because if you’re a beginner, the last thing you want to do is damage your roses.

Instead, you want to end up with a better Rose than you started with, and by focusing on the dead Material, the diseased, the damaged, and the crossing branches of your Rose, You will always end up with an improved rose. So let me show you on the Rose here what that looks like.

Let’s start with colour. The colour of good healthy growth and good healthy branches on a rose is Green, red or orange at this time of year. If you’re looking for something less healthy and let’s try to get to the camera to focus on this one here and Gray black Dark brown peeling. That’s not a healthy stem, So and you can see it at the very top of it.

It returns to some semblance of good colour. At least it has some green in it. Still, down here, It’s split, and cracks and grey, and I don’t know if that’s diseased or just entirely dead or going towards death. Still, I want to remove that to improve the condition of my Rose, So I’ll follow it down To a place where I think it still has a healthy colour, and then I will prune right there.

All right now, too damaged stems. This one is otherwise a healthy green stem, but you can see That along here, It’s become damaged and because that’s in a relatively tall part of the Rose. I Don’t Want to allow the damage to persist there. But, still, even behind it there.

You can see these branches have been probably rubbing together in the win. And at brings me to the issue of crossing branches as well because if they’re rubbing together in the wind, they’re going to get seriously Abraded there, and that’s going to be something you’re going to want to remove So if you focus on what I showed you before dead. The diseased This covers crossing and damaged branches, and if you remove all that, you can’t help but improve the condition of your Rose. So the third rule for pruning roses is to prune to an outward-facing bud.

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard this, and I think it’s probably one of the most confusing pieces of Advice for pruning roses because it gets people Self-conscious about what’s in what’s inward-facing; bud? What’s an outward-facing bud? It’s something to learn And so I’ll show you on the Rose here, and I’ll tell you my opinion of that rule. All right.

I’m on ‘Fellowship’ here and looking at this stem here. Is the centre of the Rose Sorry backing up here. It is the centre of the Rose and Looking at the branch here. You can see this butt or the Leaf, expressing the new stem that will emerge there, is going towards the centre of the Rose. Now, this rule says to prune to an Outward-facing bud.

So this one here actually faces to the outside of the Rose. So instead of choosing one, the theory and what you are thinking here. That will grow into the other foliage and branches of the Rose. Make it congested and get hard to get good air circulation. It would help if you chose a bud-like this one that is likely to shoot out this way and not congest up the centre of the Rose. So if I were to prune above a note we’re facing, bud, then my cut would happen Right about here.

And That’s not a bad rule. Anything that gets you thinking About looking at your Rose about what’s the future growth going to look like is a good thing but don’t be surprised if your Rose does not follow your Instructions because it has every Rose has a bud here, and then it has another one down here.

There’s another one down here, Another one down here. So it’s going to do what it wants to. It may express one or express all of those. So It’s good to think about where your Rose will send its subsequent growth, but don’t count on the Rose following your instructions. The fourth rule or guideline about pruning roses says what a finished pruned should look like. What should prune it to anywhere between three and some people say seven or twelve outward-facing vase-shaped forms from eighteen to twenty-four inches to the ground and What do I think of this rule? Well, I think it’s particularly harsh.

I think this isn’t An example of a rose that’s being pruned a little bit on the low side, And also, it’s a rule that is never intended.
Nobody even proposed it to match all roses, so it might work well for a floribunda or a hybrid tea that you’re trying to spur on one large flush of blooms early in the season.

Still, this Kind of pruning is excessively harsh Particularly, if you’re talking about climbers large shrubs. You know Rose’s old garden roses once bloomers all of those. It would be challenging, and even for hybrid teas Grandiflora sand floribundas, I don’t prune this low on a routine basis, Not unless.

I see some vigour problems. So I want to print it slightly lower to spur on to new growth Rule number five is a good one, an important one. It’s to start with clean, sharp tools, which is my tool of choice. It is a bypass pruner. It’s a Felco.

It’s sharpened, and it’s cleaned. I did another video on sharpening and cleaning your bypass pruners, an important step. I use this tool for most of my cuts; if it’s thicker than my finger, I go to The saw, and I use a little retractable blade saw like this one here, But the ones that the orchardists use are even nicer make a cleaner cut.

So you go shopping for those. The importance of disinfecting it is that some of your roses may carry diseases, particularly viruses that can be spread by pruning cuts, So if you have one Rose that has a condition, You go you cut it. Then you move on to subsequent roses. You may be spreading disease between different roses, So definitely disinfect between your cuts and sharpen to get the most admirable cleanest cuts. You don’t cause damage as you print. Rule number six, often quoted, is to prune your pruning cuts on an angle instead of straight across the stem.

You’re going to angle your cut Usually, or sometimes they say even away from the bud that you’re cutting. The idea of this rule, which I think is nonsense, by the way, is that it will deflect the rain.

So that if you’ve got the Angled pruning cut that it will act as the roof of a house, and the water will hit it and run Off, and it will run off away from the bud that you’re trying to protect or the bud. That’s at the top of the stem. As I say, I think this is nonsense when it rains, and it rains a lot here it gets the whole area wet. It dries it about the same rate either way.

Whether it’s on an angle or straight, whether that budgets more soaked or less wet during the rain makes no difference. It’s the other one that’s nonsense, just as a slight Aside here is to take glue and put them on those pruning cuts to try to seal them.

Not only is that going to cost you time, but The idea of filling pruning cuts has been thoroughly debunked in horticultural circles for a long time. So I’m going to put both cuttings on angles and ceiling those pruning cuts with glue or nail polish or any other notion that you have as don’t make simple things unnecessarily complicated. Keep your amount straight. Don’t seal them.

Make your life easier. The final rule here that I’m going to talk about is to prune your Rose for a pleasing shape And size and open it out. Those are more than rules. Those are the Guiding principles of pruning your roses, and it’s good. That’s what you want to do is a rose like this one that you see behind me. That’s ‘Fellowship’.

And it’s a marvellous rose, but it’s grown in a little bit.
Bushy. You can see it in the centre. It’s beginning to get a little bit congested. The overall shape of the shrub is not bad. It’s a vase shape, but it’s getting to a height where it grows another two or three feet this year.

The flowers will be above where I want them, and the overall shape and size of the shrub needs to be maintained and Managed for openness and cleanness. So I’m going to go ahead and prune this one here off-camera to save us time because it’s going to take me 15 minutes to To prune this correctly, and then I’ll show you the result. All right, all finished here on ‘Fellowship’, and you can see that I did some things that follow the rules. I used clean pruning tools.

I Cut out the dead diseased damaged and crossing branches first, and I did open out the whole shrub to more air circulation and more light in the centre and made a generally pleasing rounded shape for my garden. What may note at this point is that What constitutes a good shape will vary a lot in Rose’s genetics and your personal preferences?

So I know that this is much improved for the season. I will get more flowers, Better healthy shrub, so I know I’ve done the right job for it, But your tastes may vary as to how Low, or how high you may want to leave your roses some of the rules I did not follow I didn’t pay any particular attention to in inside or outward-facing buds.

I didn’t slant my cuts. I didn’t seal them with glue, So these are the results of my efforts are here. If you want specific pruning tips on a particular type of Rose, feel free to leave that in the comments below I’ll do my best for you and Yeah, if you have any comments leave those below. Thank you so much for watching today.

1 COMMENT

LEAVE A REPLY

Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here